Coming across a reference to a ‘slash and roll’ sleeve, while transcribing Louis’s accounts with the Prince, and not being too au fait with all fashion terms of the period, I performed some searches, and found them mentioned in the extract below, from the European Magazine and London Review. This is an absolute gem, showing in minute detail what a lady or gentleman must be wearing in June 1784, at the risk of being thought unfashionable. In order to attend the popular Ranlelagh Pleasure Gardens, you must be dressed as instructed, and of course the latest version of the famous ‘Fox uniform’ is given, so that Whig supporters would look as they should.THE DRESS OF THE MONTH
DARK green olive or bottle colours were most fashionable at the beginning of this month. – Coats half lapelled; buttons down to the bottom on the right side; four under the lapel on the other side: the cape high: Prince of Wales’s sleeve – Coloured silk waistcoats ; black silk or sattin breeches.
The present most fashionable colours amongst people of fashion are light drabs, mixtures, stone colours or striped Silesia cloths. — Coats single breasted with black velvet capes raised as high as the tye of the hair will admit of. A slash and roll sleeve with three buttons on the sleeve equally as large as those on the breast which are about the size of half a crown. — Striped or plain fancy silk muslin, or dimity waistcoats. — Buff or white kersymere breeches. Waistcoats made short: breeches-waistband to come as high as the fifth button of the waistcoat.
By the friends of Mr Fox are wore, blue plain coats, with plain yellow buttons; buff waistcoats and breeches, with buttons of the same colour.
FULL DRESS. – Caps, very wide with flowers and feathers. Suits of cloaths are trimmed with silver and foil trimmings, stones and other ornaments. Chemise tippets, and bouffons and plaitings all very full, low behind. — Blonde flat lappets. — Ruffles very long . Hoops very full, small at top, and round.
UNDRESS. — Caps are very seldom worn. Hats, coloured silk with a plain band round the crown, and a bow behind. Handkerchiefs frilled and drawn round the neck with ribbon. — Gowns muslin or dimity, Spanish robe, plain back; three drawing strings to tye before, and to be worn without an apron. Cloaks, muslin with hoods trimmed with the same. Straw petticoats are worn very long. Shoes coloured silk, with white heels, are most fashionable, long quartered, and without flaps. Stockings with coloured clocks – Buckles, oval, very large.
HAIR, when full dressed, worn very wide with three curls at the side, combed plain, the breadth of three fingers; the rest of the toupee frized and a row of small curls round the top, the hair coming down very low at the sides of the face, and plain behind. In an undress, it is worn with two curls, and plain frized.
DRESS for RANELAGH.– A large balloon hat, turned up at the sides. having a vail of gauze on the top, which hangs down behind a yard below the hat, with wreath of flowers round the crown, is at present the most fashionable, and is called the Chapeau à caravan. – Cap, Italian gauze crimped, a point before coming down at the sides. It is called the Religieuse or Nun’s cap, though ladies of all ages wear them .–Cloaks are not much worn. — Dress tippets are wore very full to cover the neck. Ruffs of blond. — Corsets are more worn than stays; the shape much longer.
The most fashionable colours are blues and browns of different shades. — Gauze petticoats trimmed with flowers.– Coloured silk body, gauze train and sleeves very full, trimmed with sloped robins. — Aprons may be wore without being particular, but are very plain trimmed.
Ladies attached to Mr Fox’s party are distinguished by an uniform of blue and straw colour; the gowns being blue and the petticoats straw colour. The hats blue lined with straw feathers, Fox’s brush, laurel and other ornaments. Elegant balloon ear rings, of three drops, blue and gold, are also worn for Mr Fox, together with elegant gauze sleeves and tippets, with wreaths of laurel, having gilt letters on the leaves inscribed, “Fox, Liberty, Freedom and Constitution”.